|
Outback South Australia
The South Australian Outback consists of approximately 750,000
square km bounded by Western Australia, the Northern Territory,
Queensland and New South Wales.
It is an arid region with monthly average rainfalls of less
than 30mm falling in less than 5 days per month. The rainfall
is usually from thunderstorms. These thunderstorms transform
the desert from stark red sand dunes, glistening ironstone
gibber plains and blinding salt lakes into raging creeks,
endless lakes (Lake Eyre being the largest) and carpets of
vividly colored wild flowers of reds, purples, pinks and yellows
the most spectacular of all being the "Sturt Desert Pea".
The rain also causes an abundant array of wildlife to emerge
from their hideouts.
The temperatures can vary between maximum summer temperatures
as high as 50 degrees to winter night temperatures as low
as minus 2 degrees.
Clare Valley
The Clare Valley is one of Australia's premium wine growing
districts.
The first vineyards were planted in this area in 1851 by The
Jesuits, (Society of Jesus) who migrated from Austria to Australia
in 1848 seeking a life free from religious and political persecution.
They settled at Sevenhill in the beautiful Clare Valley and
established Sevenhill Cellars originally called "Open
Ranges" which is the oldest winery in the Clare Valley.
The winery was originally established to provide sacramental
wine for religious use, which has been ongoing, but today
they also produce excellent quality white, red and fortified
wines.
Rawnsley
Park
Rawnsley Park run by the Smith Family since 1953, is an operating
sheep station of approximately 3000ha with a stocking capacity
of 1200 sheep. The station abuts the southern boundary of
the Flinders Ranges National Park and Wilpena Pound.
The area was first settled in 1851 with attempts to grow
cereal crops but due to drought, grasshopper plagues, rabbits
and fluctuating grain prices, cereal cropping eventually succumbed
to the elements and sheep grazing became the principal form
of farming.
Sheep grazing has also had it's good and bad times with fluctuating
wool prices which in 1968 lead the Smith Family to enter the
tourism industry to supplement their income. Today tourism
is a major enterprise at Rawnsley Park Station. At Rawnsley
Park you will have breath taking views of Rawnsley Bluff (after
which the station was named) at the southern end of Wilpena
Pound, the opportunity to take a bush walk or a bike tour
or just relax and enjoy the splendor of the magnificent Flinders
Ranges.
Flinders Ranges National
Park
Recognised as one of Australia's finest, The Flinders Ranges
National Park of 94,908ha was proclaimed in 1945. With its
rugged mountain ranges, tree lined gorges, abundant waterholes,
wildlife and flora, makes it a major drawcard for bushwalkers,
campers, artists, photographers and nature lovers.
The park has significant Aboriginal heritage, with major art
sites, European heritage with ruins of early pioneering miners
and pastoralists and impressive geological features, including
the most famous, Wilpena Pound.
Wilpena
Pound
Wilpena Pound is one of the wonders of the world. A crater
like geological feature covering 83 square kilometers stands
proudly above the surrounding plains. It is the result of
millions of years of erosion of a mountain range.
Wilpena Pound was first noted by the crew of Mathew Flinders'
HMS Investigator in 1802, but the first detailed reports came
from Edward John Eyre who explored the length of the Flinders
Ranges in 1839 and 1841.
In 1850 the first sheep run was established at Wilpena and
this is when the word "Pound" was added because
of the resemblance to the enclosures for keeping sheep, which
at the time were called "pounds".
The interior of the Pound is accessible by one gorge, which
takes you to the ruins of the old homestead occupied by the
pioneer pastoralists.
Blinman
The town of Blinman was established as a result of a copper
discovery 1859 by Robert Blinman. The Blinman Mine was established
and was the largest mine in the Flinders Ranges until it closed
in 1908. The Blinman Mine at the northern edge of town is
now a declared Historic Reserve with an interpretive walking
trail around the old mine site. Many of the old buildings
are still standing and occupied, like the North Blinman Hotel
(1869), the Police Station (1879) and the Post and Telegraph
Office (1876) and several miners cottages, which have been
restored for accommodation for the passing tourists.
Gammon Ranges National Park
The Gammon Range National Park of 128,000ha is an area of
rugged ranges, deep gorges, abundant waterholes, home of the
rare Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby and rich in Aboriginal heritage.
Aboriginal legend tells of the giant dreamtime serpent "Arkaroo"
slithering down from the ranges to quench his thirst from
the saline lakes of the plains. As he dragged himself back
to The Gammon Ranges he carved a deep gorge along the Arkaroola
Creek and where his bloated body came to rest, springs and
waterholes were formed.
This area is also where the legendary stockman and world renowned
clothing manufacturer, R.M.Williams began his career.
Arkaroola
Abutting the northern boundary of the Gammon Ranges National
Park is Arkaroola a privately owned and operated wildlife
sanctuary of 61,000ha. It has been under the control of the
Sprigg Family since 1968 when they purchased and requested
it be declared a wildlife sanctuary. Prior to this it had
a history of mining and sheep grazing.
The sanctuary features rugged mountain ranges, towering granite
peaks, razorback quartzite ridges dissected by deep gorges
lined with century old Australian Gum Trees and waterholes.
It is rich in Aboriginal Dreamtime myth and legend and abounds
in native wildlife and indigenous flora and is the home of
the world famous "Ridgetop Tour" which travels a
mineral exploration access track along the ridges and gorges
of the Sanctuary.
Iga Warta
At the southwest corner of the Gammon Ranges National Park
is Iga Warta the home of the Adynamathanha people (Hills People).
Here you will learn about and experience their culture and
their knowledge of the yarta (land). You will view Aboriginal
art and artifacts, learn about bush tucker and medicine and
hear the silence of the bush.
Copley
Copley was originally named Leigh Creek after a nearby pastoral
property but in 1891 when it was surveyed it was renamed Copley
after the then Commissioner of Crown Lands, William Copley.
It was essentially a railway town on the Great Northern Railway
later to be known as the Ghan Railway.
Today it is the home of the famous Quandong Café and
Quandong Pie.
The Quandong is a native fruit commonly called "Wild
Peach" which grows in arid areas of South Australia,
Queensland to north-western Victoria and Western Australia.
The ripe fruit is bright red with a dense flesh and a large
hard pip containing a kernel.
Leigh
Creek
Although coal was originally discovered near Copley in 1888
the Leigh Creek Coal mine is about 5km north and the town
Leigh Creek South is about 5km south. As the quality of the
coal was low grade there was only limited mining of the coal
until 1943 when open cut mining began to supply a power station
in Adelaide.
Today approximately 2.7 million tonnes of coal is mined annually
and railed, on one of Australia's longest coal trains to Port
Augusta for use in the Thomas Playford and Northern Power
stations which generate about 40% of South Australia's electricity.
The original mining town of Leigh Creek was situated over
what was considered inaccessible reserves but in 1974 a decision
was made to deepen the open cuts so the town was moved to
the current sight of Leigh Creek South.
Lyndhurst
Lyndhurst another small town on the old Ghan Railway and
the gateway to the Strzelecki Track which leads to Moomba
Gasfields, Innamincka and the Coopers Creek.
Just out of town is one of the characters and a great philosopher
of the Outback, Talc Alf (Cornelius Alferink) who makes a
living carving talc from the Mount Fitton Talc mine 120km
north-northeast of Lyndhurst.
Near town there is the grave of the last surviving full blood
Aboriginal of the Yantruwanta people who died at the age of
115 years.
Just north of the town are the ochre cliffs of spectacular
reds, pinks, oranges and whites.
Farina
Farina, (Latin for wheat or flour) now a ghost town was established
in 1882 as a farming centre and railhead for wool and cattle.
It was originally named by Governor Jervois as Government
Gums which was appropriate with the presence of mature River
Red Gums in the creek to the north of the town.
At its peak the town had a bakery, grain store, two breweries,
two hotels, a general store, post office, Anglican church,
five blacksmiths and a school. Many of the buildings still
remain some of which are being restored.
Marree
Marree is the gateway to the Birdsville and Oodnadatta Tracks.
The Birdsville Track is an old stock route along which they
drove cattle for 514km from Queensland's rich grazing country
(The Channel Country) to the railhead at Marree to be railed
to the markets in Adelaide.
The Oodnadatta Track follows The Old Ghan Railway, which linked
the outback of South Australia, Northern Territory and Alice
Springs with Southern Australia. The track also follows closely
the route of the Charles Todd Overland Telegraph Line, which
ran from Port Augusta to Darwin connecting Australia to the
rest of the World by a single wire.
Historically Marree was a staging post for the large Afghan
Camel Trains carrying wool and supplies, but between 1940
and 1980 it was an important railhead.
In more recent times it became famous for "The Marree
Man" an inscription of "An Aboriginal Man"
ploughed into the desolate plains near Marree.
Marree hosts an annual Camel Cup and Gymkhana. There is also
a replica Afghan mosque and the Arabunna Aboriginal Heritage
museum.
Lake
Eyre
Lake Eyre is Australia's largest salt lake totalling approximately
9600 square km, Lake Eyre North 8,430 sq.km and Lake Eyre
South 1,260 sq.km. The Lake Eyre Basin, which is the catchment
area for the lake system covers approximately 1.2 million
square kilometers. Although it is fed from a very large catchment
area the lakes have only filled twice in white man's history.
That was in 1950 and 1974, when the depth of water was 5.5m
and the estimated volume of water was 35 cubic kilometers.
Other years when there were substantial quantities of water
in the lakes were 1956, 1976, 1989, 1997, 2000 and 2001.
When Lake Eyre does flood it becomes the home of many water
birds who come to breed and feed on the abundant life that
blooms in the desert after rain. Lake Eyre is home of one
of Australia's largest Pelican rookeries.
The salt crust on the lake can be up to 0.5m thick totalling
an estimated volume of 400 million tonnes of salt.
The Lake surface is up to 15m below sea level at its lowest
point being the lowest point in Australia.
Lake Eyre became known to the world, when in 1964 Donald Campbell
set the land speed record of 649kph in his turbine car "Bluebird".
 |
Curdimurka
This is a siding on the Old Ghan Railway near the southwest
end of Lake Eyre South. It hosts the biennial Curdimurka Ball
a formal affair and fundraiser for the Ghan Preservation Society.
It attracts people from all over Australia.
Coward Springs
This is an area of mound springs, which are formed by artesian
water (ground water under pressure) coming to the surface
through fractures in the earth's crust and flowing freely
across the ground surface. The minerals in the water precipitating
forming mounds around the vent. This process continues until
the mound reaches a height that equalises the water pressure.
The springs usually have seepage with abundant vegetation
or a plant fringed pool at the top of the mound. Because the
water comes from great depths it can still be near boiling
point when it reaches the surface.
The most well known mound springs are "The Bubbler"
and "Blanche Cup".
The wetland at Coward Springs, which was a siding on the Old
Ghan Railway is artificial, the result of an uncapped flowing
bore. Here you can take a dip in the swimming pool.
William
Creek
Like most other towns along the Oodnadatta Track, William
Creek is on the Old Ghan Railway.
Today, it is one of Australia's smallest towns located within
the world's largest cattle station, Anna Creek, which is part
of the empire of the famous "Cattle King", Sir Sidney
Kidman. It is also home of the magical Lake Eyre and beyond
scenic flights and one of Australia's most remote hotels,
the William Creek Pub, which has over 100 years of history
present in the bar, a focal point for those who venture to
the outback.
Algebuckina
This is where the Oodnadatta Track crosses the Neales River
with permanent waterholes and the Algebuckina Bridge on the
Ghan Railway, spanning over 580m between the cliffs. The bridge
was constructed over a century ago, employing up to 350 personnel.
The area also has a history of mining with 60oz of gold being
mined in 1887 and the discovery of a diamond weighing in excess
of one carat.
Oodnadatta
Oodnadatta was adapted from the Aboriginal word "utnadata"
meaning "blossom of the mulga".
The town was a major rail link. The old Railway Station has
been placed on the heritage list and has been converted to
a museum.
The Oodnadatta Hospital was the nucleus of the Rev John Flynn's
Australian Inland Mission being the first medical centre/hostel
established in 1911.
Today the majority of the town is owned by the local Aboriginal
people.
Dalhousie
Springs
Dalhousie Springs are the true oasis in the desert.
They are within the Witjira National Park which is jointly
managed by the Irrwanyere Aboriginal people and National Parks
and Wildlife , South Australia.
They are the largest artesian springs in Australia, with about
80 active springs spread over an area of 70 sq.kms and account
for approximately 43% of the natural water discharge from
the Great Artesian Basin with water temperatures as hot as
32degrees Celsius.
There are extensive wetlands associated with the springs which
support lush vegetation that is a haven for the abundant local
wildlife.
Painted
Desert
The "Painted Desert" are the Arkaringa Hills which
is 800sq.kms of "striking and fragile beauty" listed
on the National Estate.
It is what is called "breakaway country" consisting
of mesas (flat topped hills) and broad flat open plains, displaying
an array of earthy ochre colours.
It is also one of the few known habitats in South Australia
of the "giant perentie" (a large goanna).
The
Breakaways
The Breakaways are approximately 20kms north of Coober Pedy
and they display some of the best desert landscapes. Like
the Painted Desert they are composed of Mesas and steep escarpments
displaying magnificent earthy colours. The scenery is so awe-inspiring,
that they have been used as the setting for movies of world
acclaim like "Mad Max - Beyond
Thunderdome", "Priscilla Queen of the Desert",
"Pitch Black", Mars - The Red Planet and
the list goes on.
Coober
Pedy
Coober Pedy is the Opal capital of the world
producing an estimated $35.6m worth of opal in 2001.
The name Coober Pedy was adapted from Aboriginal words "kupa"
- uninitiated man or white man and "piti" - hole
indicating the nature of the mining methods and where the
miners lived.
Opal was discovered at Coober Pedy in 1913 by 14-year-old
Willie Hutchison who was accompanying his father on a gold
prospecting expedition. The opal discovered was "floaters"
which are pieces of opal eroded out of the rock and left lying
on the surface usually at the base of an escarpment. The site
of the original discovery is within the present township.
Today Coober Pedy is a thriving town boasting a population
of approximately 3000 people from over 50 nations.
Coober Pedy is unique and interesting, in that many of the
residences and facilities are underground, the most famous
of all is the Desert Cave Motel. This is to escape the harsh
summer temperatures and the cold winter nights. There is also
the "moonscape" that has been created by the years
of underground mining, creating piles of blinding white earth
dumps across the landscape.
The town has all the conveniences of any major town and is
a definite stopover for anybody travelling in the outback.
Aussie Swag
The
"Aussie Swag" is a camp bedroll. Traditionally it
was a large piece of canvas with blankets, sheets, pillow
and other belongings inside. The canvas was folded over the
bedding from both sides and the bottom then rolled up from
head to feet and tied with a rope or belt. This prevented
any dust or foreign animals from getting into the bedding.
It was usually carried on the back by a "Swagman",
who was a person that during the 1930's depression would travel
between farming properties looking for work in return for
food or money.
Today the "Swag" is only a bedroll and is much more
elaborate with comfortable mattress, mosquito net and fully
enclosed with heavy-duty zippers. The Swag is used extensively
by Jackaroos, Jillaroos (male & female station hands),
campers, 4Wdrivers, Geologists, drillers, field hands and
many more.
Port
Germein

Port Germein is best known for being the home of one of the
longest wooden jetties in the southern hemisphere. The jetty
is constructed of huge red gum timber carted from the Wirrabara
Forest 30kms east on the eastern edge of the Flinders Ranges.
It was a major port for exporting wheat produced locally until
World War II.
Port Augusta
Port
Augusta is a historic coastal town and port being surveyed
in the 1850's. In its heyday
the port was the destination for the magnificent square riggers
to load wheat and wool from four corners of the earth.
In more recent times it was the crossover point for the trains
travelling between Sydney in the east to Perth in the west
and Adelaide in the south to Alice Springs in the north. It
is also home of the Playford and Northern power stations that
generate electricity from coal mined at Leigh Creek, 260kms
to the north, on the western flank of the Flinders Ranges.
Port Augusta has major bases for the Royal Flying Doctor Service
and the School of the Air, each servicing the outback areas
of South Australia. It is also home of the Australian Arid
Lands Botanic Gardens and Wadlata Outback Centre, an interpretive
museum that takes the visitors through the "tunnel of
time" of the Flinders Ranges and outback.
Whyalla
Whyalla was first settled in 1901, after the discovery of
iron ore at nearby Iron Knob in the 1890's. A tramway was
built between Iron Knob and Whyalla to transport the iron
ore. It was then loaded onto barges and shipped across Spencer
Gulf to the Port Pirie smelters where it was used as a flux.
Whyalla's first progressive step was in 1941 when a blast
furnace was built, producing pig iron for the foundry industry
and the establishment of a shipyard and a deep water harbour.
The shipyard closed in 1978. The second boom and by far the
biggest, began in 1958 when BHP (Broken Hill Proprietary)
Ltd announced a fully integrated steelworks would be established.
This opened in 1964. Today Whyalla is a major player in the
Australian steel industry under the banner of the OneSteel
company.
Cowell
Cowell located on the western shores of Franklin Harbour
a land locked bay with a narrow entrance. It is a small regional
town providing services for the surrounding farming community
and is a popular fishing and holiday spot for the locals.
Cowell is also recognised for its high quality Nephrite Jade
discovered in 1965 by a local farmer in the Minbrie Ranges
northwest of the town. It is also home to thriving aquaculture
businesses farming oysters.
Arno
Bay
Like most of the seaside towns along the coast of South Australia
Arno Bay was established as a shipping port servicing the
nearby farming district. Today it is a popular fishing and
holiday destination for the locals as well as others. It is
also the home of CleanSeas Aquaculture, established in 1996
to produce abalone spat and finfish fingerlings.
Port Lincoln
Port
Lincoln is situated on Boston Bay one of the world's largest
natural harbours. It was discovered by Matthew Flinders in
1802 and named after his home county, Lincolnshire in England.
Port Lincoln is the major service centre for Eyre Peninsula
with a population of 13,000 people. It is a major port for
exporting grain, it has one of the largest modern fishing
fleets in Australia moored at Lincoln Cove Marina that catch
tuna, southern rock lobster, prawns, a wide variety of scale
fish and support aquaculture industries which generate in
excess of $400million per year for the states economy. It
also has a small wine industry producing premium quality wine.
Port Lincoln hosts the annual John West Tunarama Festival
that attracts thousands of people from all over the continent.
The local area offers spectacular scenery from the rugged
coastline being battered by the wild seas of the Southern
Ocean at Whalers Way (scene of TV series, Australian Survivor
2002), booming surf beaches to stunning white sandy beaches
in the protected clear blue waters of Boston Bay and spectacular
lookouts to view the overall beauty of Port Lincoln and Boston
Bay.
Streaky
Bay
The
coastline between Port Lincoln and Streaky Bay offers some
of the most spectacular coastal scenery seen anywhere in Australia,
from the protected bays of Coffin Bay, Dutton Bay, Elliston,
Venus Bay, Baird Bay and many more to sheer limestone cliffs
that drop hundreds of metres to the fierce and sometimes unforgiving
waters of the Southern Ocean and Great Australian Bight. Also
there are secluded unspoilt surf beaches backed by spectacular,
gently rolling white sand dunes.
Streaky Bay is another of these protected bays along this
beautiful coastline. It is a service centre for the surrounding
farming district and is home to a small fishing fleet when
the seasons are open.
The
nearby area offers Murphy's Haystacks, unusual granite outcrops
standing above the surrounding gently rolling hills, Point
Labatt Sea Lion colony, swimming with the sea lions at Baird
Bay, surfing, fishing and a lot more.
Minnipa
- Wudinna Area
This
area is granite country with significant and unusual granite
outcrops standing above the gently rolling countryside. Because
of their geological significance some have been listed on
the Register of National Estate. Some of these are Pildappa
rock, a wave like formation, Tcharkulda Rock featuring large,
spectacular tafoni formations, Mount Wudinna and Ucontitchie
Hill.
This area is also the gateway to the Gawler Ranges National
Park
Gawler Ranges
The
Gawler Ranges are gently rolling, peaceful hills of
volcanic origin.The ranges are a spectacular wilderness area
of unspoilt beauty with vast domes of volcanic rock displaying
a vivid array of colour against the pure white of the numerous
salt lakes of the area, of which Lake Gardiner is one.
The ranges are renowned for their display of wild flowers
in spring. The first sighting of South Australia's floral
emblem, Sturt's Desert Pea was made here in 1839 by Edward
John Eyre.
The area is home to some 140 species of birds and many other
native animals including emus, kangaroos, wombats and yellow
footed rock wallabies.
The Gawler Ranges National Park, formally Paney Station is
a 165,000 ha wilderness area with a unique environment of
considerable beauty.
|